Pump House Frame

The Frame - 2012 ~ by Griz (aka Steve Stovner) ~
I tend to over design everthing, then try to build it without spending any money. But if I do buy retail, I lean toward the best quality available. The only things I purchased retail for this building were:

• 5 pounds of 1-1/2" galvanized screws.
• 10ea. 8 foot 2x6 studs
• 15 sheets 4'x8' siding
• 30 foot of "Z" flashing for the horizontal siding joint.
• 18 sheets wall board
• 6 tubes of 35 year latex caulk
• 5 gallons high quality Behr exterior latex paint
• 125 amp electrical breaker panel

Everything else I had on hand from previous acquisitions (free or at very low cost from garage sales, estate sales or auctions)

There is not a single nail in the entire building. All the frame work is screwed together with 3" #8 deck screws (a few 4" #9 screws in needed spots). The siding is attached with 1-1/2" #6 galvanized screws. The metal roofing is secured using 1-1/2" hex head screws with rubber washer seal.

In conventional stick framing the sidewall top plates are level (square end on stud) and the rafters are notched to interface with the level wall tops. What I did was cut the top of the wall studs at the angle of the roof so the 2x6 rafters would lay flat on the top plate without notching. Then the 2x6 roofing perlins would run at right angles to the rafters (no notching would be required). However, when it came time to collect the roof frame lumber I found I was short on 2x6's but had a good supply of 12' 2x10's.

My final design has a single layer of 2x10 perlins versus 2 layers of 2x6's (rafters and perlins). The inboard end of the 2x10 perlins [A] rests on a center beam [B] made of 3 side-by-side 2x6's and the outboard end rests on the endwall top plate. The perlin overhang [C] is undercut (notched) to 4-1/2" high, so the roof thickness will look proportional to the rest of the building. To create the sidewall overhang, sections of 2x10 [D] were butted (screwed) at right angles to the outermost perlin with the center resting on the side wall top plate and the overhang notched down to 4-1/2" high. Bridging blocks [F] were installed between all 2x10s (on top of the top plates). The whole roof frame was then banded with 2x6 (serving both as a roofing "nailer" and facia).

The center 3 south wall studs are installed for easy removal (as will be the south side siding) so later when the interior is completed, I can remove the south wall to bring in the 500 gallon water tank.

2x2 nailers were added to facilitate soffet installation.

A triple 2x6 "beam" [B] supports the inner end of the 2x10 perlins [A]. The black spot [E] is Henry 209 roof patch I used to plug old screw holes from when the roof panel was installed on the shop back in 1995.